Once again, travel throws up the unexpected but in the end it usually works out fine with unexpected bonuses along the way. So it was again today.
Unplanned start in Brussels instead of London of course and the first 5.30 alarm in four Weeks! Across the road to Brussels midi station - again having proved my opinion that Brussels has the worst set out and signed stations in the world - to start the whole checkin process again. Breakfast of coffee and croissant and then some time trying to catch up with Facebook etc on the station WiFi before thankfully called to board. Thank goodness.
Uneventful 2 hour trip to London St Pancras, straight through to the u Der ground and got tickets to Victoria and then a three station trip there. Easy. Found Europcar at the bus terminal all and had the car - a great fiat Tipo diesel with satnav- and off into the London traffic by 10.00 their time. All good.
Easy following the satnav out of London and onto the M4 heading west past Heathrow, Windsor, Oxford, Salisbury but ominous signs saying M4 closed at 16 to 18 - long delays. Had a nice coffee morning tea break and looking to get to Wales by 2 easily.
Then we hit the stationary traffic and crawled until we were diverted off the motorway and spent the next 3 hours crawling in a line of traffic through lots of little side roads and cute villages. Lovely scenery but not what we wanted.
Finally got to Jenny's at about 5 o'clock absolutely exhausted after 7 hours in the car. Wonderful welcome, tea and soup and later beautiful dinner more than made up for the fun drive. We did, however, manage to revisit the beautiful Cotswolds and drive through some beautiful Welsh countryside in the process- the joys of Travel!
Sure you'll understand why there are no pictures attached Tonight!
Saturday 30 September 2017
2017 day 28 (29th September- Wasser billing to London??)
Travel is always an adventure and today had a bit of all - both the real pleasures and the frustrations and challenges.
We started out in Remich in Luxembourg and with a clear morning started out on our final 35 k of the ride along the Moselle. This was probably the most beautiful day of the ride through vinyards and mountains on either side of the wide, smooth river - just beautiful.
We had to be into Wasserbillig in time to catch our connecting train to Luxembourg and on to Brussels. There had been a bit of a problem with these arrangements - I had been advised by the cycle travel company that the barge would be docked by midday so I made all the train arrangements accordingly finishing with catching the Eurostar in Brussels at 6.55 pm. Unfortunately they advised us at the beginning of the cycle that finishing time was about 2.00pm which made my first planned train link from Wasserbillig to Luxembourg leaving at 12.45 a bit Difficult! We did a bit of negotiating with the captain and tour guide that we should be able to go for the 1.09 train and he would be OK to berth by about 12.30 so all should be good.
Absolutely beautiful ride and finished in Wasserbillig about 12.15 but no sign of the barge - captain called to say he was held up by a large barge through the locks and was trying to get there by 12.45! We went and bought the rail tickets and then looked out for the barge which eventually berthed at 12.50 so a very quick collection ton of our gear, fond farewells to our cycling colleagues and a run to the station where the train was actually in but we managed to get on board - a close Call!
Changed trains in Luxembourg and arrived in Brussels just in time to line up for the security and immigration checks that go with the Eurostar eXperia centre. Time to go and get some tea before boarding - Perfect!
After that things got interesting. Everyone was standing up ready for the boarding call when an announcement was made - in French Only! It caused a bit of fuss amongst some of the crowd (obviously those who could speak French) and those of us who had to rely on talking with others gradually worked out that the train was cancelled. No other messages, no nothing. Eventually those of us who crowded around the information desk found that we could get yellow tickets to rebook for some other time and we should go "to the front desk" for further announcements.
Absolute mayhem. No announcements, the crowd for the next train starting to arrive and lots of angry people trying to rebook online or by phone and no idea of what was happening. Eurostar was pretty well a disgrace really - they had no idea of what to do. I decided to just stand in the crowd and not leave until something was sorted and gradually as people got frustrated and moved away I got closer to the front. After literally about two hours I was close enough to push my ticket in front of the girl at the desk and asked her to rebook us for the first train in the morning and get us a hotel room for the night and she Did! Thankfully by about 9.30 we were in the Ibis hotel across the road with a ticket for the 7.00 train in the morning.
Now that is an interesting day Travelling!
We started out in Remich in Luxembourg and with a clear morning started out on our final 35 k of the ride along the Moselle. This was probably the most beautiful day of the ride through vinyards and mountains on either side of the wide, smooth river - just beautiful.
We had to be into Wasserbillig in time to catch our connecting train to Luxembourg and on to Brussels. There had been a bit of a problem with these arrangements - I had been advised by the cycle travel company that the barge would be docked by midday so I made all the train arrangements accordingly finishing with catching the Eurostar in Brussels at 6.55 pm. Unfortunately they advised us at the beginning of the cycle that finishing time was about 2.00pm which made my first planned train link from Wasserbillig to Luxembourg leaving at 12.45 a bit Difficult! We did a bit of negotiating with the captain and tour guide that we should be able to go for the 1.09 train and he would be OK to berth by about 12.30 so all should be good.
Absolutely beautiful ride and finished in Wasserbillig about 12.15 but no sign of the barge - captain called to say he was held up by a large barge through the locks and was trying to get there by 12.45! We went and bought the rail tickets and then looked out for the barge which eventually berthed at 12.50 so a very quick collection ton of our gear, fond farewells to our cycling colleagues and a run to the station where the train was actually in but we managed to get on board - a close Call!
Changed trains in Luxembourg and arrived in Brussels just in time to line up for the security and immigration checks that go with the Eurostar eXperia centre. Time to go and get some tea before boarding - Perfect!
After that things got interesting. Everyone was standing up ready for the boarding call when an announcement was made - in French Only! It caused a bit of fuss amongst some of the crowd (obviously those who could speak French) and those of us who had to rely on talking with others gradually worked out that the train was cancelled. No other messages, no nothing. Eventually those of us who crowded around the information desk found that we could get yellow tickets to rebook for some other time and we should go "to the front desk" for further announcements.
Absolute mayhem. No announcements, the crowd for the next train starting to arrive and lots of angry people trying to rebook online or by phone and no idea of what was happening. Eurostar was pretty well a disgrace really - they had no idea of what to do. I decided to just stand in the crowd and not leave until something was sorted and gradually as people got frustrated and moved away I got closer to the front. After literally about two hours I was close enough to push my ticket in front of the girl at the desk and asked her to rebook us for the first train in the morning and get us a hotel room for the night and she Did! Thankfully by about 9.30 we were in the Ibis hotel across the road with a ticket for the 7.00 train in the morning.
Now that is an interesting day Travelling!
Thursday 28 September 2017
2017 - day 27 (28th September- Thionville to Remich)
Big day today. Only 40 km total but lots to see and do. Firstly through the beautiful forest of Cattenom and took an uphill diversion to check out a bunker form the Maginot Line which was a massive line of fortified bunkers and military structures built from 1930 to 1938 by the French to defend against the Germans.
Sadly the Germans invaded via Belgium and the northern forests in 1939 through the only part of France without the fortifications. Most of it is still there and some still used by the military apparently.
Lunch stop was at Sierk-les-Bains where the dukes of Lorraine had built a large castle and fortification in the 12th century. Had lunch in the grounds and a look around the remains of the castle.
Scenery was by now much more the usual French countryside with rhetoric fields an grapevines and beautiful cattle grazing on lush long grass. Spectacular.
Next stop was a spot where a Roman villa system had been discovered in the 1800's and a magnificent mosaic dug up. An amazingly complete piece of spectacular art work.
Got to Remich about 4 and went to a winery housed in tunnels 20 metres underground to give a constant temperature of 12 degrees. They have about 90 000 bottles stored and bottled there along with massive vats for the making of mostly still and sparkling whites. Called St Martin's but unfortunately they don't export to Australia because it is beautiful.
Last dinner on board tonight - rather sad as it has been lots of fun and we've spent the week with really nice people.
Sadly the Germans invaded via Belgium and the northern forests in 1939 through the only part of France without the fortifications. Most of it is still there and some still used by the military apparently.
Lunch stop was at Sierk-les-Bains where the dukes of Lorraine had built a large castle and fortification in the 12th century. Had lunch in the grounds and a look around the remains of the castle.
Scenery was by now much more the usual French countryside with rhetoric fields an grapevines and beautiful cattle grazing on lush long grass. Spectacular.
Next stop was a spot where a Roman villa system had been discovered in the 1800's and a magnificent mosaic dug up. An amazingly complete piece of spectacular art work.
Got to Remich about 4 and went to a winery housed in tunnels 20 metres underground to give a constant temperature of 12 degrees. They have about 90 000 bottles stored and bottled there along with massive vats for the making of mostly still and sparkling whites. Called St Martin's but unfortunately they don't export to Australia because it is beautiful.
Last dinner on board tonight - rather sad as it has been lots of fun and we've spent the week with really nice people.
2017 day 26 (27th September- Metz to Thionville)
Sorry for last night - ran out of ration and couldn't complete the blog. The day had been mostly spent in Metz which as is becoming a habit, was far beyond our pre-conception. It used to be a village with a very large Cathedral but not much else until Napoleon decided it was close enough to the German border to be of strategic importance so built it up as a major military and administrative centre with very grand architecture etc. Beautiful opera house, city hall, military barracks to add to the beautiful cathedral.
It must be one of the highest cathedrals in Europe - quite magnificent. Left there after lunch to ride to Thionville which involved travelling along a very industrial section of canals with coal loaders, fertilizer plants, old iron smelters, gravel pits and large transport hubs for trucks and rail. Not very scenic but interesting to see how the Lorraine region had been fought over between France and Germany so much in the past.
As we appreached Thionville the country became more and more typical rural with crops and grapevines increasing.
It must be one of the highest cathedrals in Europe - quite magnificent. Left there after lunch to ride to Thionville which involved travelling along a very industrial section of canals with coal loaders, fertilizer plants, old iron smelters, gravel pits and large transport hubs for trucks and rail. Not very scenic but interesting to see how the Lorraine region had been fought over between France and Germany so much in the past.
As we appreached Thionville the country became more and more typical rural with crops and grapevines increasing.
Tuesday 26 September 2017
2017 day 25 (26th September- Nancy to Metz)
Hope we're not speaking too soon but this has been the easiest cycle we've done. The tracks are generally very good with the occasional diversion onto the roads and so metimes the track is just gravel or mud which makes the cycling interesting.
Today was in fact our longest day- 60km but it was broken into sections so wasn't really difficult. Most of the bikeways ran through avenues of trees so it was cool and pleasant riding beside the river/canals.
First big stop was a place called Pont-a-Mousson which typically had a town square, big church and monastery. Lots of swans in the river as well. Not to mention a lovely patisserie with really good eclairs!
Interesting displays along the way towards Metz to recognise the role the Americans played in the battle for Metz in 1944. Must read more about it as it was apparently a massive and difficult battle involving General Patton. The section of the river we were stopped was where the troops crossed.
Also a massive Roman Acquaduct which used to cross the river. Arrived in Metz at about 5.00pm. Big day but nothing that a cold beer and three course dinner couldn't fix.
Today was in fact our longest day- 60km but it was broken into sections so wasn't really difficult. Most of the bikeways ran through avenues of trees so it was cool and pleasant riding beside the river/canals.
First big stop was a place called Pont-a-Mousson which typically had a town square, big church and monastery. Lots of swans in the river as well. Not to mention a lovely patisserie with really good eclairs!
Interesting displays along the way towards Metz to recognise the role the Americans played in the battle for Metz in 1944. Must read more about it as it was apparently a massive and difficult battle involving General Patton. The section of the river we were stopped was where the troops crossed.
Also a massive Roman Acquaduct which used to cross the river. Arrived in Metz at about 5.00pm. Big day but nothing that a cold beer and three course dinner couldn't fix.
Monday 25 September 2017
2017 day 24 (25th September- Liverdun to Nancy)
Very foggy morning again for a start as we set out from Liverdun for about a 30km ride to Nancy where we arrived about 11. Yupka took us on a guided tour of the city so we found out more than we had when we were here a few days ago. Parts of the old walls and some of the entry gates are still there and the town has some of France's grandest architecture.
The ride today took us beside the Moselle again as well as canals which were built beside the right error to make the river more navigable. The bike paths were generally very flat and shaded by rows of planted trees so it was very easy and pleasant. Unfortunately many beautiful scenes were missed as we kept cycling as a group.
Very easy day's so far but tomorrow is apparently a cycling day of about 55km and we end up in Metz.
The ride today took us beside the Moselle again as well as canals which were built beside the right error to make the river more navigable. The bike paths were generally very flat and shaded by rows of planted trees so it was very easy and pleasant. Unfortunately many beautiful scenes were missed as we kept cycling as a group.
Very easy day's so far but tomorrow is apparently a cycling day of about 55km and we end up in Metz.
Sunday 24 September 2017
2017 Day 23 (24th September- Toul to Liverdun )
A very easy day's riding today. It was a very cool/cold foggy morning even when we set out at 9.00 after breakfast. First we rode just a few kms from our mooring into the centre of Toul where we parked/locked the bikes. Armed with a town map supplied by Yupka our cycling guide we took a wander around this medieval city which still has most of its old walls and entry gates in tack.
Magnificent old cathedral also but showing signs of decay with many stained glass windows broken and plaster falling from ceilings. Beautiful cloisters off to the side though.
Rode alongside both the Moselle River itself and sometimes old and sometimes new canals. Completely flat riding on bike paths and occasionally the roads. Very pretty ride and eventually the sun shifted the fog to reveal the full view.
This is very different to our previous rides in that we have a cycle guide who leads the group at all times - we only stop when she stops so taking pictures of scenes which attract your attention is not possible. Normally we do self-guided and so w
e are finding this format a bit restricting even though Yupka is a good guide.
We arrived in the little village of Liverdun where the barge was already moored athe about 2.00 so had the afternoon to wander around. It seems quite run down and poor unlike most of the other places we've visited so far.
Relaxing time on the deck this afternoon before a nice fish dinner and of course more quiche Lorraine!
This will be the last blog for a while - WiFi is quite restricted in the barge and one blog uses up most of my "allowance" ! I'll be back publishing next week in England - but I'll draft daily entries as I go to maintain the record.
Magnificent old cathedral also but showing signs of decay with many stained glass windows broken and plaster falling from ceilings. Beautiful cloisters off to the side though.
Rode alongside both the Moselle River itself and sometimes old and sometimes new canals. Completely flat riding on bike paths and occasionally the roads. Very pretty ride and eventually the sun shifted the fog to reveal the full view.
This is very different to our previous rides in that we have a cycle guide who leads the group at all times - we only stop when she stops so taking pictures of scenes which attract your attention is not possible. Normally we do self-guided and so w
We arrived in the little village of Liverdun where the barge was already moored athe about 2.00 so had the afternoon to wander around. It seems quite run down and poor unlike most of the other places we've visited so far.
Relaxing time on the deck this afternoon before a nice fish dinner and of course more quiche Lorraine!
This will be the last blog for a while - WiFi is quite restricted in the barge and one blog uses up most of my "allowance" ! I'll be back publishing next week in England - but I'll draft daily entries as I go to maintain the record.
Saturday 23 September 2017
2017 day 22 (23rd September Nancy to Toul)
A fairly short travel today as Toul is only a 20 minute train ride from Nancy and we did not have to be at the boat until 3.00 so we enjoyed a bonus morning to look around Nancy more. Started with a typical French breakfast at a little cafe - juice, coffee (shot not cappacino) breadroll with jam and croissant. Wonderful just sitting in these cafes eating typical food and listening to the beautiful language.
We returned to the beautiful town square but a bit like playschool we picked another gate at the corner and entered a beautiful park full of chestnut trees changing into their autumn colours and dropping leaves and nuts.
Back to the hotel to check out and then headed for a little street in the old town which was lined with cafés where we enjoyed a lunch of - guess What? - quiche Lorraine- seeing as we are actually in Lorraine!
Train was leaving at 2.34 so headed for the station, caught the train (exactly on time again) and 20 minutes later we reached Toul. Had our first navigation mix up as the instructions on getting from the station to the boat's mooring were quite misleading and we ended up having to ring the boat and they met us at the tourist office.
Had the usual introductions and briefings and then a lovely dinner. Boat is actually quite large and cabin reasonably roomy and all very comfortable. Tomorrow we ride into Toul for a tour and it is a fairly short day. Pretty good Start!
We returned to the beautiful town square but a bit like playschool we picked another gate at the corner and entered a beautiful park full of chestnut trees changing into their autumn colours and dropping leaves and nuts.
Back to the hotel to check out and then headed for a little street in the old town which was lined with cafés where we enjoyed a lunch of - guess What? - quiche Lorraine- seeing as we are actually in Lorraine!
Train was leaving at 2.34 so headed for the station, caught the train (exactly on time again) and 20 minutes later we reached Toul. Had our first navigation mix up as the instructions on getting from the station to the boat's mooring were quite misleading and we ended up having to ring the boat and they met us at the tourist office.
Had the usual introductions and briefings and then a lovely dinner. Boat is actually quite large and cabin reasonably roomy and all very comfortable. Tomorrow we ride into Toul for a tour and it is a fairly short day. Pretty good Start!
Friday 22 September 2017
2017 day 21 (22nd September- Chur to Nancy)
Purpose of today was to get across Switzerland via a way we had not been previously to reach the Lorraine area in France to commenced our bike-ride from Toul tomorrow.
Had an easy start in Chur as the train did not leave until about 9.00 so after a leisurely breakfast we wandered the short distance to the station. Unlike home, the trains here all seem to run exactly to time and sure enough we left exactly on time. Actually in the last two days we have taken 6 trains and every one has left exactly to the minute on time and arrived exactly on time. Now why can't QR do That?
The first leg took us across northern Switzerland through Zurich to Basel. Quite flat farmland with the mountains well in the background and quite a lot of industry. Went past the factories for Lindt chocolate, Electrolux as well as a couple of large coal
fired power stations one of which was obviously undergoing major extensions - interesting. And right in the suburbs of Zurich.
We had to change trains at Basel and soon after crossed into France and the country opened out into quite extensive farmlands with corn being harvested. Passed the Gaggenau factory. Had to change trains again in Strasburg for the final leg to Nancy where we arrived at about 3.00.
Now the reason we had picked Nancy to stay was simply convenience for a fairly long train day and an easy trip to Toul tomorrow to meet the barge. Well, what a Surprise! It is simply breath-taking. The town square (Place Stanislas) is like Versailles with magnificent buildings, lots of fountains and gold-covered ironwork and statues everywhere.
We have tomorrow morning to do some more exploring so that will be fun. Dinner tonight re-acquainted us with our favourite French dish - foie gras - as well as very good steak and fish plus - guess What? - Tiramasu and profiteroles. Quite a quick walk Home!
Had an easy start in Chur as the train did not leave until about 9.00 so after a leisurely breakfast we wandered the short distance to the station. Unlike home, the trains here all seem to run exactly to time and sure enough we left exactly on time. Actually in the last two days we have taken 6 trains and every one has left exactly to the minute on time and arrived exactly on time. Now why can't QR do That?
The first leg took us across northern Switzerland through Zurich to Basel. Quite flat farmland with the mountains well in the background and quite a lot of industry. Went past the factories for Lindt chocolate, Electrolux as well as a couple of large coal
We had to change trains at Basel and soon after crossed into France and the country opened out into quite extensive farmlands with corn being harvested. Passed the Gaggenau factory. Had to change trains again in Strasburg for the final leg to Nancy where we arrived at about 3.00.
Now the reason we had picked Nancy to stay was simply convenience for a fairly long train day and an easy trip to Toul tomorrow to meet the barge. Well, what a Surprise! It is simply breath-taking. The town square (Place Stanislas) is like Versailles with magnificent buildings, lots of fountains and gold-covered ironwork and statues everywhere.
We have tomorrow morning to do some more exploring so that will be fun. Dinner tonight re-acquainted us with our favourite French dish - foie gras - as well as very good steak and fish plus - guess What? - Tiramasu and profiteroles. Quite a quick walk Home!
Thursday 21 September 2017
2017 day 20 (21st September- Bologna to Chur)
Very different day today. It was the "day of three trains" which took us from Bologna to Chur in Switzerland. Terrific time in Bologna - recommended to all travellers.
Fast train from Bologna to Milan was the first. Left spot on time from the station at Bologna which goes underground for 5 levels. Soon speeding at up to 300kph through fairly flat farming land. Smooth and quiet - I think the Italian trains and their whole system of booking etc are the best in Europe.
Arrived in the magnificently grand Mussolini era Milan Central Station spot on time again and found a seat on the crowded Regional Trenord train to Tirano. This is a beautiful trip - soon running beside the magnificent and famous Lake Como all the way south to North and then starts climbing into the mountains finally reaching Tirano right on the Swiss border. Sat down for lunch at a little cafe right next to the first group of Aussies we've encountered on the whole trip so had a nice chat with them.
Then it was on the Bernina Express. This is one of those "everyone should do" travel icons and it certainly is a very special journey. It was a bit mucked up today as part of the line is closed for maintenance so we started with a normal Regional Swiss train then changed into buses first the trip up the Bernina Pass which was actually probably more spectacular from the bus than the train. We finally met the Bernina Express at Pos hiano and the trip went as normal from there. Mind-blowing engineering with things like the circular viaduct at Brusia where the train almost doubles
on itself as it circles up a viaduct to increase the altitude 400metres but only a 5% incline. The Weiner Viaduct crosses a ravine at 430 metres and there are numerous huge tunnels as well. Add spectacular mountain scenery and the picture-postcard image of Switzerland is there in reality.
Got to Chur - quite a pretty little town all very neat and tidy as you'd expect. Not holidaying much in Switzerland as a dinner of cider, glass of red wine, roast potatoes and salad cost $96 Australian!
Fast train from Bologna to Milan was the first. Left spot on time from the station at Bologna which goes underground for 5 levels. Soon speeding at up to 300kph through fairly flat farming land. Smooth and quiet - I think the Italian trains and their whole system of booking etc are the best in Europe.
Arrived in the magnificently grand Mussolini era Milan Central Station spot on time again and found a seat on the crowded Regional Trenord train to Tirano. This is a beautiful trip - soon running beside the magnificent and famous Lake Como all the way south to North and then starts climbing into the mountains finally reaching Tirano right on the Swiss border. Sat down for lunch at a little cafe right next to the first group of Aussies we've encountered on the whole trip so had a nice chat with them.
Then it was on the Bernina Express. This is one of those "everyone should do" travel icons and it certainly is a very special journey. It was a bit mucked up today as part of the line is closed for maintenance so we started with a normal Regional Swiss train then changed into buses first the trip up the Bernina Pass which was actually probably more spectacular from the bus than the train. We finally met the Bernina Express at Pos hiano and the trip went as normal from there. Mind-blowing engineering with things like the circular viaduct at Brusia where the train almost doubles
Got to Chur - quite a pretty little town all very neat and tidy as you'd expect. Not holidaying much in Switzerland as a dinner of cider, glass of red wine, roast potatoes and salad cost $96 Australian!
Wednesday 20 September 2017
2017 day 19 (20th September - Bologna)
A fabulous and memorable day today. Our last day in Bologna so we finished on a high note - not that there was anything wrong with the other days at all. This is a city we can absolutely recommend to anyone considering coming to Italy. It is unique and has just so much to offer.
Today was our cooking class day. It turned out to be so much more than that though. After meeting us outside the hotel after breakfast, our cooking instructor Rita took us on a walk around town and explained how Bologna has ended up with the incredible food that it is celebrated for. It was the Roman crossroads for Nth Europe, the East and Africa so has drawn food traditions from all those areas and more as well as being a centre of trade from the Americas when they were discovered.
We visited the food market Street which was full of sights and sounds and smells we've never experienced before. Here we purchased meat and fruit and late wine for our lunch - thankfully Rita was doing the buying.
More wine tasting on the way to her place and then we entered her beautiful villas in the central part of town - typical villa type of residence with roof garden, courtyards etc - really beautiful place to live.
And so to the cooking class. We mixed the ingredients for pasta and rolled it into balls to rest. Then to the kitchen to make the bolognaise sauce as well as quiche and .......wait for it - Tiramasu! So much to remember but she is going to send us the recipes etc.
We then learnt how to fold the pasta into tortellini and torteloni and then fold and cut for tagliatelle- boy are we experts - until we get home and try to do all ourselves. Rita is quite renowned in Italy and takes classes all over the world so we were learning from the very best and it showed in her teaching.
All that then got cooked and we sat down for the great Tasting! Needless to say it was all just beautiful. Wine with each course and some magnificent cheeses just to make it even better. It was a fabulous experience and we actually stayed until well after 4.30 and then she told us that it is usually over by 3! Probably because we're slow learners but she was kind enough to say she was just enjoying herself.
Needed to walk so called into the old civic building in the Piazza which is now a library and if you go down to the basement you can walk amongst the old Roman foundations. Amazing -they date back 2 centuries b.c.
No need for dinner tonight. Off to Switzerland by train first thing in the morning so early night is planned.
Today was our cooking class day. It turned out to be so much more than that though. After meeting us outside the hotel after breakfast, our cooking instructor Rita took us on a walk around town and explained how Bologna has ended up with the incredible food that it is celebrated for. It was the Roman crossroads for Nth Europe, the East and Africa so has drawn food traditions from all those areas and more as well as being a centre of trade from the Americas when they were discovered.
We visited the food market Street which was full of sights and sounds and smells we've never experienced before. Here we purchased meat and fruit and late wine for our lunch - thankfully Rita was doing the buying.
More wine tasting on the way to her place and then we entered her beautiful villas in the central part of town - typical villa type of residence with roof garden, courtyards etc - really beautiful place to live.
And so to the cooking class. We mixed the ingredients for pasta and rolled it into balls to rest. Then to the kitchen to make the bolognaise sauce as well as quiche and .......wait for it - Tiramasu! So much to remember but she is going to send us the recipes etc.
We then learnt how to fold the pasta into tortellini and torteloni and then fold and cut for tagliatelle- boy are we experts - until we get home and try to do all ourselves. Rita is quite renowned in Italy and takes classes all over the world so we were learning from the very best and it showed in her teaching.
All that then got cooked and we sat down for the great Tasting! Needless to say it was all just beautiful. Wine with each course and some magnificent cheeses just to make it even better. It was a fabulous experience and we actually stayed until well after 4.30 and then she told us that it is usually over by 3! Probably because we're slow learners but she was kind enough to say she was just enjoying herself.
Needed to walk so called into the old civic building in the Piazza which is now a library and if you go down to the basement you can walk amongst the old Roman foundations. Amazing -they date back 2 centuries b.c.
No need for dinner tonight. Off to Switzerland by train first thing in the morning so early night is planned.
Tuesday 19 September 2017
2017 day 18 (19th September - Bologna)
All the best plans have to be changed and today's walk into the Apennines was thwarted by heavy overnight rain that did not want to abate so David our guide suggested we drive to a little village called Dozza so of course we took his advice.
About an hour's drive through the heavy morning traffic and along the via Emelia which is an old Roman road brought us to Dozza. At the centre of town is an amazing 12th century castle built of brick and later converted to a palatial residence occupied by the same family up until the 1960's so furniture, paintings and even letters dating back to the 1600's were on display.
Beautiful views of the surrounding hillsides from the old battlements and amazing old kitchens and bathrooms provided plenty of interest. Absolutely fabulous li
ttle wine-tasting room in the magnificent basements of the castle let us sample a selection of whites and reds - We then headed to yet another great little restaurant for lunch before heading back to Bologna for some shopping and getting train tickets for our journey north to Switzerland on Thursday.
After such a big and beautiful lunch we headed out to find "something small" for dinner but after a fair time wandering about we decided that the next place would be "it" no matter what and of course it turned out to be one of the flashy restaurants but on the menu was beef cheek and oxtail so who could Resist? Absolutely beautiful cooked in red wine with roast potatoes- not a bad end to a day of changes but pleasant surprises.
Weather has fined up so our market shopping for tomorrow's cooking class should be OK. Really looking forward to learning just a few tips at least on this fabulous Italian Food!
About an hour's drive through the heavy morning traffic and along the via Emelia which is an old Roman road brought us to Dozza. At the centre of town is an amazing 12th century castle built of brick and later converted to a palatial residence occupied by the same family up until the 1960's so furniture, paintings and even letters dating back to the 1600's were on display.
Beautiful views of the surrounding hillsides from the old battlements and amazing old kitchens and bathrooms provided plenty of interest. Absolutely fabulous li
After such a big and beautiful lunch we headed out to find "something small" for dinner but after a fair time wandering about we decided that the next place would be "it" no matter what and of course it turned out to be one of the flashy restaurants but on the menu was beef cheek and oxtail so who could Resist? Absolutely beautiful cooked in red wine with roast potatoes- not a bad end to a day of changes but pleasant surprises.
Weather has fined up so our market shopping for tomorrow's cooking class should be OK. Really looking forward to learning just a few tips at least on this fabulous Italian Food!
Monday 18 September 2017
2017 day 17 (18th September - Bologna
Some thing completely different today. This was the first of our two walking days arranged with a guide to take us to places of interest in the mountain areas around Bologna. David met us after breakfast and we caught a bus to the outer suburbs where we wandered up a mountain road past beautiful farms and wineries many of which were old Manor houses and are still in beautiful condition.
We arrived eventually at a small winery where we toured the production process for their main product of sparkling white wine. They provided a lovely lunch of traditional breads, cheese and salami as well as their white and red wines which were lovely.
We then headed back down the mountain into the suburbs again and after some afternoon tea at a patisserie we bravely took to the next big mountain which was an ancient pilgrim trail using the stations of the cross up a very steep rough path to a huge church of San Lucas (St. Lukes) which houses a 11th century painting of the Madonna which has traditionally protected Bologna.
As you may have gathered this was a huge amount of walking - over 12km in all up very steep tracks but the views were quite magnificent to compensate.
We arrived home at about 7.00, pretty well exhausted and after a recovery shower headed for whatever was t
he nearest restaurant for dinner. Turned out to be great as usual. Traditional lasagna and tortellini and red wine of course. They all provide beautiful breads and always a limoncello at the end of the meal.
Another mountain day tomorrow right up into the Aspennines.
We arrived eventually at a small winery where we toured the production process for their main product of sparkling white wine. They provided a lovely lunch of traditional breads, cheese and salami as well as their white and red wines which were lovely.
We then headed back down the mountain into the suburbs again and after some afternoon tea at a patisserie we bravely took to the next big mountain which was an ancient pilgrim trail using the stations of the cross up a very steep rough path to a huge church of San Lucas (St. Lukes) which houses a 11th century painting of the Madonna which has traditionally protected Bologna.
As you may have gathered this was a huge amount of walking - over 12km in all up very steep tracks but the views were quite magnificent to compensate.
We arrived home at about 7.00, pretty well exhausted and after a recovery shower headed for whatever was t
Another mountain day tomorrow right up into the Aspennines.
Sunday 17 September 2017
2017 day16 (17th September Bologna)
A culture day today. We met our guide Daniella after breakfast and she took us around the historic buildings of the city and was a great source of information.
Starting in the Piazza Maggiore we saw the historic civil buildings dating from the 14th century. Bologna has been a Roman city, a city state, a Papal city, ruled by Napoleon and then capital of the region so the civic buildings reflect bits of all these periods.
Probably the most interesting building we visited was the University building. The university started in 1088 but the building - Archiginnasio Palace - was built in the 13th century. The interior walls and ceilings are covered with student crests and we also visited the amazing anatomy theatre where disections commenced in the 17th century using bodies of executed prisoners. There was also a huge law room so I've taken pictures for Geoff. This was the world's first faculty of law.
Bologna has numerous huge towers which were built by the wealthy in an on-going game of one-upmanship. Some are now leaning so they have more leaning towers than Pizza!
After Daniella left us we had a lunch break and then visited the medieval history museum which was absolutely fascinating. Hundreds of artifacts from 11th century plus and they had to throw us out at closing time - 6.30!
Another restaurante recommended by the hotel produced the usual terrific meal - tortellini and bolognase and beautiful cold meats to start.
Tomorrow we have the first of our walks in the mountains so hopefully we won't be too exhausted for blogging tomorrow night
Starting in the Piazza Maggiore we saw the historic civil buildings dating from the 14th century. Bologna has been a Roman city, a city state, a Papal city, ruled by Napoleon and then capital of the region so the civic buildings reflect bits of all these periods.
Probably the most interesting building we visited was the University building. The university started in 1088 but the building - Archiginnasio Palace - was built in the 13th century. The interior walls and ceilings are covered with student crests and we also visited the amazing anatomy theatre where disections commenced in the 17th century using bodies of executed prisoners. There was also a huge law room so I've taken pictures for Geoff. This was the world's first faculty of law.
Bologna has numerous huge towers which were built by the wealthy in an on-going game of one-upmanship. Some are now leaning so they have more leaning towers than Pizza!
After Daniella left us we had a lunch break and then visited the medieval history museum which was absolutely fascinating. Hundreds of artifacts from 11th century plus and they had to throw us out at closing time - 6.30!
Another restaurante recommended by the hotel produced the usual terrific meal - tortellini and bolognase and beautiful cold meats to start.
Tomorrow we have the first of our walks in the mountains so hopefully we won't be too exhausted for blogging tomorrow night
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