The others - day 25 (Rennes to Dinge)

Main lesson from today? Never book a cycling tour with Macs Adventures! More on that later but as far as the days ride itself went beautifully. Weather forecast was for +10mm rain but luckily it just stayed cloudy but cool the whole day - just great for cycling. The route just followed the canal from almost in the centre of Rennes all the way to Hede where the ride officially to usher for the day but we then had to go an extra 10k to our accommodation in Dinge. So what went wrong? Story goes like this: We were supposed to be given our bikes at the hotel in Rennes at 9.00am. Waited in the foyer until 9.30 when I was about to ring the contact and in came our bike delivered. Followed him over the road to get the bikes out of the van and as he was adjusting the handlebars, the head set screw snapped. Oh dear I'll have to go and get another headset - meet me back here in an hour. Got a map from the hotel and went for a walk around Rennes for the next hour which was in fact very interesting and we picked up some bread, ham and cheese for a picnic lunch. Finally got our bikes at about 11 and headed for the "starting point" as per instructions. Problem was that no-one in town knew the place in question so by the time we sorted that out it was about midday! After that we enjoyed the beautiful and flat ride adjacent to the canal and through the gorgeous countryside and forests. Beautiful ride. Things got a bit difficult when we reached Hede and found we had no instructions for the extra journey to Dinge except to say "Di he is another 10k on from Hede" No problem, we'll have a cup of coffee and just ask. No-one in Hede knew the way to Dinge! Impossible ! Finally a girl came up with her iPhone and found it and after some more false starts and frustrating phone calls which only gave us French speaking answers we got on hopefully the right road. We finally got to Dinge and then had to ask the chemist for final directions. Got to the lovely B&B to be told by the wonderful owner that the first she knew about us coming was when our luggage got delivered in the afternoon!! Problem was she was actually on holidays and was not having guests! She rang Mac adventures and gave them a huge serve and we will have to pay cash for the nights accommodation and be reimbursed by Macs. No restaurant or pub in this tiny village so off to the general store to buy some food for dinner and then back home to clean up. Thought we'd better take a look at tomorrow's rude only to discover they have not given us the instructions for this section! The lady here has been just wonderful and is a real character and has saved the day really. She will get us breakfast in the morning but is then off straight away on her holiday with her daughter. I have managed to download some maps to get us to Dinan tomorrow but wait for tomorrow's blog to see if we succeed or just wander around France! Complete failure by the tour company and we won't be using them again I'm afraid.

The others - day 24 (Paris to Rennes) - pronounced Rrrren!

Supposed to be a ordinary old travel day today but travel always throws up unexpected adventures and incidents that live long in the memory - today was one of those. CITIZEN M hotel at get airport was very interesting as I said yesterday. Lovely breakfast from the 24/7 kitchen, booked ourselves out on the computer and set off late in the morning to catch the TGV to Rennes straight from the airport. It was blowing, cold and raining so a good day for travel (except on a bike!) We decided to book the return TGV for next Monday while we had time and there are machines plus office at cdg airport so off we went to do that. Ma hine didnt want to work so reluctantly lined up at the booking desk- didnt have to wait too long though. Explained to the lady that I wanted tickets from Pontsoran back to cdg next Monday 7th. Now some may remember my French train booking story from a few years ago - " there are verks on the track" - well guess what? The lady looked at the computer and uttered the immortal words - "i'm very sorry sir, you cannot return here next Monday as there will be verks on the tracks!!!" She found my response of giggling a bit surprising but was very good at her job and continued with tbe advice that she would look at what else could be done. After some checking on tbe computer she then added to my amusement by announcing "It's ok we can detour by Granville!" It does sound grander in French - gronveele - but the spelling is the same! Now it means that we go all the way to Paris and then catch a shuttle bus back to the airport so hope our shuttle experience is better than the last effort. Had a beautiful train trip of 3.5 hours to Rennes and took a taxi to the hotel in tbe middle of town. Had a bit of a worry when the ride instructions were not in the room but found they had booked us two rooms! Instructions don't seem as good as those from Girolibero but we'll see how it goes. Rennes is a surprise packet. Beautiful town centre with grand opera house and huge square plus an old part of town which dates back to middle ages -13th and 14th centuries - amazing. Riding tomorrow - it will be good to be back in action again.

The others - day 23 (Lecce to Paris)

Travel always throws up interesting circumstances! We had booked our cab for 6.30 this morning to go from the hotel in Lecce to the bus station for the 6.55 shuttle to Brindisi airport. Up at 5.30 and were lucky to find the breakfast room open as they have been accommodating some Cabinieri (police) and they were having an early breakfast. Easy carbide (apart from the rough road) to the bus station where the cab driver left us with the instruction "stay right at this spot as this is where the shuttle will pick you up" - stood there with some other travellers, luggage etc and exactly at 6.55 a bus pulled in - are you the airoporto shuttle? No. Another bus came in behind. Are you the aeroporto shuttle? Driver nodded and put our luggage in the luggage compartment. Joined the line and got to the driver and presented money. ??? - no no not aeroporto- lady sitting in front row informed us this was the bus to Naples and that the airport shuttle had just left! Driver went to get our luggage back out of compartment and same lady emerged from the bus and spoke (animated Italian of course) to the driver who then put our luggage back and signalled for us to get on board. Explained in sign language that he would meet the shuttle bus near Brindisi and we would swap. More animated conversation by driver on his mobile and we were off with applause from all the passengers! Sure enough, rapid detour into a servo just outside Brindisi and "arrivaderci" and " molto grazie" to driver and passengers and we were on the shuttle! Still not sure how that all happened but again human kindness and helpful people saved the day! Got on-time flight from Brindisi to Rome where we had a three hour transit but enjoyed a really nice panini with pork etc for lunch. Plane to Paris was tgen delayed an hour so we had a FOUR hour wait time but finally got off on what I think was the most beautiful flight I've experienced - right up the Italian coast and then across the Italian/Swiss Alps which still had snow on the high points. Across Switzerland with its lakes and villages end mountains - absolutely spectacular flight. Arrived in Paris at 4.30, transferred to terminal 3 by auto shuttle and bought our tgv tickets for the trip to Rennes tomorrow from a machine! So clever. Also found our way to the citizen m hotel which has check-in via a computer and everything in the room is run from an iPad. Where are you Claire and Jessie and Tom? Actually had a really good (late) dinner - all ordered and delivered high tech of course - curried lamb and a chicken/potato dish plus cab sad- very good. All the serendipitous nature of travel - that's what makes it such fun! Unfortunately o photos from todzy as my camera was in tge overhead locker whilst we flew over the alps but got a couple on tge phone to show later. A couple from the ride-

The others- Day 22 (Lecce)

Today and tomorrow are "rest days" to give a bit of recovery time between rides and it has been great to just have a late breakfast and take leisurely strolls around the ancient town of Lecce with its Cathedral which dates back to 1144 and a Roman amphitheatre. To add the fun today was their youth environment demonstration so there were thousands of students in town and they marched through the central streets at 10.30. Interesting. They hold a pretty good quality demo here - all dressed in designer gear, iPhones to their ear or taking selfies and they spent their time both before and after the march in the town cafes having coffee and then pizzas etc afterwards - took us ages to get served for lunch! Lecce is a great place to spend a couple of casual days as there is something different and interesting around every corner. The old city area alone has 20 churches! Mostly baroque but each different. Time in Italy is sadly coming to an end. Some impressions of Italy: * the language is beautiful - to listen to Italian conversation is extraordinary - musical, emotional, so much expression goes into it. You can just stop, listen and enjoy! *there are no ugly Italian policewoman. *unfortunately in many areas they treat their beautiful countryside like a rubbish tip. We have never seen so much roadside rubbish. The demonstrators this morning could do a great deal for their environment just by going out and picking up tons of rubbish - plastic bottles for a start. *there is a mixture of very wealthy and very poor in coexistence. The economy is not good judging by the number of derelict buildings and closed businesses. Larger centres have lots of rundown areas. *the emergency service sirens are designed to leave your ears ringing as they pass by. *Italian drivers go by their own rules. They park where they like and take absolutely no notice of speed signs anywhere. Having said that we did not have one pass us too close on the bikes and all were courteous and patient - never a problem We have to be up early in the morning to fly to Paris. Spent some time today repairing my port from the Eqyptair handling/lost time so it will hopefully get everything home in one piece!

The others - day 21 (Otranto to Lecce)

We have done it! 400k of riding some of the toughest roads we've ever encountered with some significant climbs thrown in for good measure! Final day of the Italian ride started in Otranto which is a smaller town absolutely stunning in its setting beside the Adriatic Sea. Magnificent cathedral and other magnificent architecture. It was described as the easiest days ride of the trip and it was certainly flatter and the roads were smoother. Stopped of at the Torre del Orso which is a large Waterhole connected to the ocean which is a popular swimming and diving spot. A bit further on stopped for a Tapas lunch before continuing through a hiking reserve where we rode in an avenue of gum trees! Afternoon tea we joined a group of 6 Norwegians who have been riding together for 12 years. Reached Lecce about 4 so good timing. Went I to town for a quick look around before tea and came across a great little concert being performed in a little art gallery - a treasured moment with beautiful music. Back to the hotel for a good dinner and then sleep. Two days rest here before heading for Paris!

The others - day 20 ( Santa Maria di Leuca to Otranto)

Amazing day. Beautiful weather and a terrific ride starting at S L di Leuca and ending I this terrific little town of Otranto. Started out with a big climb out of SO do Leuca and had quite a few "challenging" climbs along the way with a 52 km total for the day represented a good challenging ride. Basically skirted the beautiful Adriatic Sea - SO blue it is almost unbelievable. Little towns along the way with some beautiful little bays, grotto and swimming holes. Stopped for lunch in Castro and at little stops along the way for coffees etc. Ran into Michelle a couple of times as well plus a group of German cyclists whom we keep seeing ever since Matera even though they are not on our ride! Arrived in Otranto about 4.30 and easily found our lovely hotel. Usual scrub up after a hard day's ride, glass of our Limoncello and then off to tour the old town. Absolutely a surprise packet this one. Beautiful harbour, lovely streets and shops, incredible cathedral with the whole (huge) floor covered in a mosaic of the tree of life. Stunning.dinner in a great little restaurant recommended by the hotel - pasta and gnocchi which more than filled us up! Last day tomorrow. It has been an amazing ride - will summarise and comment in the next blog.

The others - day 19 (Gallipoli to San Maria Leuca)

Big point today was reaching the "heel of Italy" at San Maria Leuca but took a bit of getting to of course.we left Gallipoli at about 9 after a great breakfast in the dining room right on the edge of the sea. BEAUTIFUL. Headed along the coast and the guidebook indicated that all we needed to was keep to the coast road all the way. All went well until we came to a barricade across the road with "Tutti traffico Distoglieri" sign. No idea where to just closed! So helpful. Had to divert and fry to keep the sea on our right but ended up on a major highway heading at least in the right direction. Called in to a service station and managed to get directions in spite of neither having each other's language and eventually got back to the planned route. Beautiful ride along the coast. Michelle caught up to us so we shared a lovely lunch and then she continued on to another place for a swim while we kept to the planned route. We eventually reached the official heel of Italy just before reaching San Maria Leuca which is a lovely little town right on the water. Usual shower and change of clothes after a long warm day on the bikes and headed down town where we eventually ended up at a lovely Pizzeria and enjoyed the first pizza we've had in Italy! Must beautiful. We picked the right p,ace as they were flat out all night. FABULOUS!

The others - day18 (Ostuni to Gallipoli)

If you're like me as an Australian you think of only one Gallipoli but the Italians have one too! It is the southern most point of the mainland and is of course a seaside resort with an old and new sector. Thats where we are tonight after a pretty demanding day's ride. The story: Had to catch the 9.52 train from Ostuni which took us to Lecce which we visit again at the end of the ride. Arrived in Lecce (pronounced lecture) an hour later and then started out on the 48km ride to Gallipoli. The first three quarters of the day were pretty ordinary really - just a hard slog on terrible country roads. The Italians are incredibly untidy I'm afraid. The country roads are just rubbish tips. In addition to the normal bottles and cans lining the side of the road they add bigger stuff like tv's, sofas, mattresses, and old boxes, crates - anything that should be in a proper rubbish tip - plus rats! It's terrible. Added to that their roads here in the south are dreadful - rough and full of significant sized potholes - our backsides and arms are quite sore from the constant pounding. We travelled a fair way today with Michelle the Irish girl so we had some pleasant chatter to relieve the pain! We eventually reached the coast at Nardo and apart from the still terrible roads the ride got far more pleasant. Beautiful coastline and great little beaches along the coast- really quite beautiful. We arrived at our lovely hotel - an ex-nunnery- at about 4.30 which was pretty good going. Clean up, take a lovely walk around the old town looking in on an u usual cathedral and an interesting olive oil museum. Back home to get ready for dinner at the hotels restaurant across the road on the edge of the water for a seafood night! Lobster and mussels and prawns and oysters etc! Tomorrow is a coastal ride which should be great.Good night!

The others-day 16 (Alberobello to ostuni)

They lied! The guidebook said yesterday was the hardest day of the tour but we all agreed that today was quite a bit harder. Beautiful ride though. Started with usual hotel breakfast in Alberello and set off about 8.30. First part of the ride was just beautiful using old back roads winding tbrough vineyards and olive groves with the trulli (google) both in old form in fjelds and on tbe roadside and also being used as a model for modern, often luxurious residences. Took the option to go up to see Martina Franca a lovely village perched of course on top of a big hill! Coffee and a bite to eat and then called in to a great little shop they have in these parts which specialise in local product.absolutly fantastic. Ought some local mozzarella, shaved pork, bread rolls to take with us for lunch st which we had in a great little picnic area on the bikepath. Things went a bit haywire after lunch with the navigation due to a missing arrow on a crucial turn but with the com ined navigation skills of a German group we soon sorted it out. Beautiful winding road through quite hilly sou try including a visit to Locorontondo again on top of a big mountain. These villages are really very com I,ar to those in Provence- all on top of big hills with the church and piazza prominent. Always a big climb and we did three today. Got into Ostuna about 5.30 and eventually found our very nice hotel after some misinformation from a local. Hotel manager had to try a few osteri to find us a vacancy on a Sunday night but turned out to be very good as we have come to assume here - beautiful pork for me and rabbit for Elizabeth. Off on a train to Lecce to start the day but finish with a cycle from there to Gallipoli on the southern tip of Italy!0

The others- Day 16 (Matera to Alberobello)

It IS not very often that we start a Bike Ride with a 76km day with hills especially after just spending a fortnight lazily eating our way through Egypt and Tuscany. However, that was our challenge today and we somehow managed it and are still standing albeit a bit tenderly! Had to be up slightly earlier this morning for packing and having breakfast before checking out of the very good Can Martini hotel and getting to the pick-up point for by a bikes at a local garage. Turned out there are 7 of us on the ride - an Irish girl and two English couples together and us. Had a briefing, collected our bikes and managed to get started by about 9. Managed to navigate out of Matera no worries and were soon in the countryside. Very different to either Tuscany or Northern Italy where we ride 2 years ago. Countryside is very like riding from Toowoomba to Warwick - rolling hills and fertile farmland with all sorts of grains plus grapes and fruit trees in production. Had a surprise just before lunch when 9 Italian air force jets in close formation came over us, release smoke trails and did aerobatics -WHAT a lovely welcome for us" we thought but soon remembered that they would be celebrating 20 September their national day based on the date Rome was taken over, thus completing the unification of Italy in 1870 (advantage of studying Italian at school!) Grabbed a bit of lunch at a place called Gila del Colle but could only squeeze in a coffee and ice-cream as they all close at 1 for siesta! A kind Italian cyclist guided us out of Collie but that played havoc with my cycle distance readings but we managed to get to Putigano ok but unfortunately there were roadworks wnich gotslly wrecked our guide documents. In the end we went into Putigano, had a quick look and then just followed the road cig s to Alberobello which took us on a better but busier road than we we supposed to be on. So good that at one stage two cycles passed is doing an estimated circa 200kph! Scary!Got into Alberobello at about 5 which was good going and we had done 76 km which compared pretty well with the ofvicual75. Dinner to night was lovely. Went down to the centre of town to a street cafe and had a lovely past in tomato sauce with z beautiful orange dessert. We can take plenty of this Italian cuisine! Not such a big cycling day tomorrow. Happy about that! Only 45km.

The others- Day 15 (Matera)

Final day in Matera. Headed for the town square after breakfast as we wanted to do the tour of the Palombaro Lungo or underground water cistern which was carved from the rock under the town square in the 16th Century. Sign said ticket office opens at 9.25 so being Italy it was about 9.35 when someone turned up to sell tickets for the 9.30 tour! It was worth going though - incredible place which tapped spring water and stored it underground in huge caves hewn from the rock and lined with terracotta sludge to keep it waterproof. Holes in the roof where they used to lower the buckets into the water to draw their supplies. Up to a cafe on top of the city hall with a great view and good coffee. Visit to the nearby bank for cash withdrawal for the ride and then headed off to the older side of the town to explore. You can just spend your day walking around this place and not get bored - every time you turn a corner there is something fascinating revealed. In one of the many churches we watched restoration work of the gold embossing being done and then we reached the older part of the town where people lived in caves right up to the 1950s. Lunch at the same great place we were yesterday and had some beautiful antipasto and bruschetta plus their own brewed beer which was great. Got home for a break but then had to go out as they must have been doing more James Bond filming as a jet kept on doing low runs over the town and letting out smoke so everyone was out watching. Got up to the Piazza of S.Giovanni which had previously been blocked off by security for the James Bond filming. Found a cafe for afternoon tea and they served something called Expessino Fresco which was a creamy consistency cold coffee- absolutely delicious! Dinner tonight was interesting. Two nights ago we had been to a well-regarded restaurant just down the road and tried to get in for dinner but they were booked out - we therefore asked for a booking for tonight. "What time would you like?" "7.30" "7.45 would be better" - we were their first entry in the Booking book! So being very careful about the time we timed it to be there exactly at 7.45 but found the doors closed. Take a walk and come back. Still closed. Take a walk and buy some souvenirs. Still closed. Check my watch - actually 7.10! Back home for a bit more packing and then return at the correct time. Had a magnificent meal - wild boar for E and pork with fried peppers for me. The food - again - is just beautiful. Ride starts 8.30 in the morning and we have 75 km to go first day - might be a brief blog tomorrow night!

The Others - day 14 (Matera)

How can I begin to explain this extraordinary place? It is like no other place on earth. Built across two Valleys with the cave and stone dwellings dating back to prehistoric times. Built on the steep hillsides with paths and roads twisting in and out of the buildings - almost impossible to navigate. It has taken us quite a few blind alleys and retracing steps just to find our hotel breakfast room as the hotel is spread over numerous separate sites. This morning we had a late (7.30) breakfast and soon set out to explore. Found a little "local produce" store which sold us a bottle of Limoncello for E10 which we had seen in duty free at the airport for 18! Back home to put it in the fridge and set off again to find the main square which we managed quite well. Finding your way around here is a real challenge. Went to the information centre a nd they gave us a great map and explained how to get around really well. Up through the extraordinary streets to the Duomo (Cathedral) which is just magnificent inside but the gold is bit overdone! Back via the old find our around the wall and found a little trattorria with a beautiful view so stopped for a "quick light lunch" but followed the waiters recommendations and ended up with a steak dish for E and a pasta to me which were both abso,Italy beautiful. The food here is simply beautiful with flavours which defy description. Bike ride coming up!