2017 day 36 (7th October- Kenmare to Kinvarra)

Continuing our Northern excursion up the "Wild Atlantic Coast" from the lovely Kenmare we decided to maintain the policy of sticking to the coastal route which has given us some wonderful Vistas of rural Ireland.

The main aim today was to visit the iconic cliffs of Moher but there was a fair bit of travel to be done to get there. We took the scenic route again from Kenmare up to Killarney but this time we had another challenge to the usual narrow winding road with buses and tight corners etc by finding that the was a bike race being held so we had to sit behind bikes until you could see enough clearance ahead to pass. Just added to the fun but they like their riding dangerous around Here!

From Killarney we continued north to Tralee and then followed the coast road up to the Shannon Ferry which crosses the large Shannon River inlet. Arrived just as the ferry was pulling out so had to wait an hour for the next Service!

Following the coast road north brought us to the famous Cliffs of Moher along with literally hundreds of other tourists. The Cliffs are certainly spectacular - over 200 metres high and they extend for 8 km so we didn't walk the whole length of course. Weather stayed fine although windy and quite cold but we got to see them in good conditions really.

Following on from the Cliffs is an area known as the Burren which are huge mountains which are just rock and very little soil - quite an amazing sight.

Not a long trip on to our B&B in Kinvarra where the pubs are a bit of a disappointment as far as food is concerned and we went to one across the road and settled for Lasagna-  and a Guinness of course.

2017 day 35 (6th October- Kenmare - Dingle Peninsular)

It just gets better it seems. Raymond strongly recommended that we do the Dingle Peninsular as he thinks it is actually better scenery than the Ring of Kerry so we set out through Killarney then turned left before Tralee headed for the town of Dingle about half way across the southern coast of the Peninsular.

First stop was a beach called Inch which actually had quite good fine sand and a beautiful wide beach. A couple of surf schools operate from there and we could see a gliding group setting up further up the beach. Lots of tourists stopping to see the rare example of a good beach in Ireland we Presume!

Dingle was the next stop and again pleasantly surprised by this quite beautiful little seaside village which had some really top little shops where we were able to find souvenirs better than those we had seen previously. Lovely morning tea as well. Lady in a great little antiques shop told us that this was where the movie Ryan's Daughter was filmed in about 1970 and where to find the site where much of the filming occurred. The wind and the drizzly rain had well and truly set in by this stage so it was quite atmospheric as we travelled along the high coastal cliffs and found the bay where the storm scene in the movie was staged.

Magnificent scenery all along the coast and we think we agree with Raymond that the Dingle Peninsular is in many ways more scenic than the Ring of Kerry and the driving is a lot easier as well.

Another great day finished with dinner at PJ McCarthys pub in town with the traditional Guinness and beef stew for me and seafood chowder for Elizabeth. You've just got to pinch yourself occasionally to remember that this is all real.

2017 day 34 (5th October- Kenmare -the Ring of Kerry)

ALMOST everyone who visits Ireland tours the Ring of Kerry and it is generally regarded as one of the great and iconic drives in the world. Did it meet those Expectations?  We think so but the previous day's drive around the other southern peninsular compared very well on most fronts. The Ring of Kerry suffers from too much success - buses and tour groups everywhere and this is the "low" Season!

No doubt ting the spectacular scenery which is constantly changing and frequently providing the "wow" factor. We were blessed with brilliant sunshine and clear skies for the whole day. Raymond and Daniella our lovely hosts at the B&B gave us a full lowdown on the trip before we set out. Stopped at a funny little place called Sneed to fuel up (cash only thank you)  and buy some souvenirs. The square on the East side of the town is South Square and the square on the west is called North Square. As we've found for other things, the Irish March to their own Beat!

Another stop at the Staigue Fort - up an even narrower and winder road - built between 500bc and 300ad from rock placed so carefully that no mortar was necessary.

The road twists and turns along high cliffs overlooking the ocean and Islands the most spectacular of which would certainly be Scarrit Island. It then turns inland for a time before re-emerging on the north side of the Peninsula overlooking Dingle Bay.

We stopped in Killarney and got some information from the visitor's centre re the national park which we had a bit of a look at before heading back towards Kenmare stopping at the beautiful Torc falls before the road took us over the mountains with great views of the lakes and back into Kenmare.

Kenmare has been a great centre to stay. Very pleasant little town with fabulous main street full of great restaurants and pubs. There is something very special about walking into town, enjoying a Guinness and a beautiful stew while listening to terrific Irish music live and then heading back in the cold night air thick with the smell of coal fires.  Just fabulous.

2017 day 33 (4th October- Kinsale to Kenmare)

Again taking the advice of our B&B host John we continued on the coastal path trading speed and ease of driving for the potential of more spectacular views. Again we were not disappointed. The weather was clear as we set off after a beautiful full Irish breakfast -(including Black pudding Bronwyn) Back through the beautiful village of Kinsale. John told us that the Old Head of Kinsale was the last port of call for Titanic.

First stop was the most Southerly point of Ireland - Mizen Head - where there is a pub and a lighthouse and a dog who loved chasing stones but not much else. Beautiful drive to get there though.

We then continued around the spectacular "Wild Atlantic Coast " around the edge of both the Bantry inlet and the Kenmare inlet. Reached the  point adjacent to Dursey Island where there is an incredible old cable car still taking passengers across the windy gap - very brave passengers we'd say.

The country we travelled through today was quite extraordinary - beautiful green and fertile in places but quite windswept and rocky in others. Spectacular cliffs and high mountains - parts reminded us of Mull.

Drizzle settled in as we got to Kenmare at about 5.30 and after a freshen up walked the 10 minutes into town in the drizzle, wind and cold - it is Ireland after all. Beautiful dinner at the Horseshoe Public-  crab claws and salad for Elizabeth and huge helping of pork ribs for me.

Very slow Internet here so I'll just put up one blog picture tonight - the cable car across to Dunsey Island.

2017 day 32 (3rd October Killinick to Kinsale)

Always pays to take advice from the locals. Pierce at the Moyglare B&B advised to take the southern coastal route across to Cork so we would see more of the coast and also see some extra sights such as the Hook lighthouse. It was a much winder road and quite narrow and of course lined with hedges but it turned out to be good advice of course.

One problem we have struck has been the satnav in the Fiat - obviously designed by an Italian and just the most difficult thing to follow. It sent us back to Rosslare harbour this morning instead of taking us to the place we needed to go to start the Hook Head trip so we ended up ignoring it. Had more trouble with it getting through Cork as well.

Hook Head lighthouse is fascinating. It was built by monks in the 13th century as a warning to shipping in the area and they lived within it and kept the fires burning all night as well as their other duties. It has had lights attached to the top fuelled by coal,  oil, paraffin and electricity and is still in operation so at over 800 years old is by far the world's oldest. Had the full tour and a bit of morning tea at the end.

Kept to the coastal route which was very twisty and slow but beautiful. Crossed on the Passage East ferry to Tramore, Dunbar van along what they call the copper coast where they used to mine and smelt copper in buildings just like those portrayed in the Polldark series in Cornwall where they produced tin.

We got to our lovely B&B south of Cork after the satnav gave us a bit of a run around in Cork but all's well that ends

well. They recommended that we head down 10 k to Kinsale for dinner as it is renowned for its seafood. Had the best fish and chips ever and seafood chowder. Beautiful. Ireland is going very well!

2017 day 31 (2nd October llangynidr to Killinick)

We are back in beautiful Ireland after 11years' absence and it feels Wonderful!

We said our sad farewells to Jenny, Paul and Helen in Wales at about 9.30 and set off on the A40 west across Wales. Absolutely beautiful drive but fairly slow with tractors and horse floats along the way. We weren't game to stop for photos or coffee as we had to make the ferry terminal at Fishguard by 12.40 at the latest so kept on going.

We finally arrived at the terminal at about 12.30 so just went straight and lined up/checked in for the ferry which then left on time at 1.10. Always amazed by how many vehicles including buses and semi trailers go onto these ferries.

We had been a bit worried by the weather reports for the Irish Sea coming through yesterday as they were predicting force 9 gales and very rough seas which would probably mean cancellation of the service or at least a very interesting Trip! However, the weather seemed to improve as we got closer and by the time we left the harbour the Captain was predicting a reasonable crossing albeit with the stabilizers extended. Turned out to be a fairly comfortable crossing with the occasional big swell giving rise to a thud and a shudder but overall not too bad. We had lunch and a coffee and watched the movie "Sully" which was about the Hudson River plane ditching and the following investigations. Very good movie.

Arrived in Rosslare harbour a bit late due to the big swell and after having our passports checked we found the Moyglare  B&B at Killinick a few kms down the road. They recommended the Cooper's Inn just down the road for dinner so after an afternoon walk we headed down there. You've just got to love the Irish and their pubs. So welcoming even though you really can't follow the general conversations.  Ordered Guinness and then a Steak and Guinness pie each - magnificent.

Pierce and Marlee are the operators here and have lit

a beautiful fire for us in the lounge tonight and given us the suggested route and things to see on the way to Cork tomorrow.

2017 day 30 (1st October - llangynidr)

At last a day of Rest!  Able to spend a restful day with Jenny and Paul and Helen starting with a huge cooked breakfast  cooked by Paul - eggs, bacon, tomatoes and mushrooms.

Off to the village of Crickhowel for lunch after a morning walk. Beautiful roast lamb for dinner - a lovely day.

Off to Ireland in the morning with a fairly early start.